The surreal island

Photo: Leonel Mendes

When you think of incredible places, Mozambique Island is undoubtedly one of them.

Few places radiate such a unique energy; it’s surreal!

You know how when you visit your grandmother's house, and she always complains, "I have nothing!" and suddenly out come delicious snacks, filled with love, leaving everyone stuffed with NOTHING? That's the island—it has NOTHING special.

It’s just over 3 kilometers in circumference, filled with NOTHING.

There isn’t a centuries-old fortress built over sixty years, which once sheltered those who lived here and were sold like commodities.

I’m not even talking about the museum, which houses a well-preserved piece of colonial history, thanks to President Samora Machel, after one of his guards nearly destroyed a hundred-year-old chair.

I’m not mentioning the numerous colonial-style houses, vibrant with colors and endless stories.

Photo: Leonel Mendes

I won’t even bring up the first mosque built in the country.

Or Sara and Saquina, must-visit spots for those wanting to try local dishes (the Matapa de Siri siri is heavenly), made with immense care.

Like a tour guide, let me share in a bit more detail two places that made my visit to the island memorable because of their atmosphere and owners.

First is Pátio dos Quintalinhos, a guesthouse nestled in the center of the island, right across from the largest of many mosques. Positioned by the beach, it’s a true work of art. Like (almost) all places here, it’s old but beautifully redesigned by its owner, Gabrielle, an Italian architect who has called the island home for nearly two decades. The original rooms boast a simple yet tasteful design, optimizing natural light and incorporating local materials. Gabrielle offers a simple breakfast, but full of details: fresh bread, freshly squeezed fruit juice, and seasonal fruit jam that makes you want more. All this at a price that a local tourist can easily afford to enjoy the NOTHING the island has to offer.

Second, Relíquias, a beautifully decorated restaurant with three distinct areas, where the beach view is (for me) the most stunning, with books at the entrance captivating any good enthusiast. Mr. José, always calm and cheerful, welcomes us while buried in his papers. But the pearl of the place is its staff. Always smiling and attentive, they care for us with a warmth that’s becoming increasingly rare in our restaurants. The food, a variety of seafood, is always fresh, grilled to perfection, bursting with flavor. A true feast for the palate!

Photo: Leonel Mendes

A place that was once the “Home” of Camões for about two years (between 1567 and 1569) continues to inspire various authors, like Angolan writer José Eduardo Agualusa, who chose Mozambique Island as the setting for his new novel “The Living and the Others.” Truly, the island has NOTHING special.

Leaving the island is always nostalgic. It has a magnet that makes us want to return, to enjoy its crystal-clear waters.

(By Leonel Mendes)